- Punakha to Trongsa; 3 hours and 45 minutes
- Punakha to Gangtey; 2 hours and 20 minutes
- Gangtey to Trongsa; 2 hours and 15 minutes
- Trongsa to Jakar; 2 hours
- Jakar to Thimphu; 6 hours and 45 minutes
Driving times are approximately as outlined, depending on road conditions and how often you stop to admire the view!
If you are coming to Bhutan for a longer visit (7+ days), we recommend you include Bumthang. Though, if you take advantage of the domestic flights, it’s also realistic to get to / from Bumthang during a shorter visit to Bhutan.
Bumthang literally translates as beautiful field, but can also be translated as beautiful girl.
Prior to the unification of Bhutan in 1616, it was the Kingdom of Bumthang, one of several small kingdoms within what is now Bhutan. Bumthang is where Buddhism was supposed to have first taken root in the 8th century.
Bumthang is considered to be the spiritual centre of Bhutan, and is one of the most historic districts.
Jakar was the capital of the Kingdom of Bumthang, and Jakar Dzong is still the administrative centre of Bumthang.
The journey to Bumthang by road continues east on the Primary National Highway from Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang through Trongsa to Jakar.Gangtey (Phobjikha Valley) is a short detour off the highway between Punakha and Trongsa.
gangtey and phobjikha valley
Lawa La Pass into Phobjikha Valley. Stupas or chortens often mark the passes, and they must be traveled around clockwise, for luck.
The Black Necked Cranes (Grus nigricollis), are present in the Phobjikha Valley from November to February.
The Black Necked Cranes roost along the river on the valley floor of Gangtey and Phobjikha.
Gangtey Gonpa / Monastery. When the Black Necked Cranes migrate into the Phobjikha Valley, they are seen to circle the monastery on arrival and again on departure.
It is well worth going deeper into the Phobjikha Valley, to experience daily life in Bhutan on the farms.
Khewang Lhakhang on the floor of the Phobjikha Valley at sunset with Gangtey Monastery on the hill behind in the last light.
Taking a short detour off of the Primary National Highway, between Punakha and Trongsa, via the Lawa La pass brings you into the Phobjikha Valley.
The valley is home to the Black-Necked Crane Visitor Centre, where you can learn more about the cranes and meet two permanent residents. The Black-Necked Cranes arrive in from the Tibetan Plateau in November, and remain in the valley until February. There are around 300 pairs of birds there at the height of their season.
Gangtey Monastery hosts a Tshechu, the Black-Necked Crane Festival, in early November to celebrate their arrival, and the valley is also a haven for other vulnerable species, and so 163 sq km of the valley is protected and under the management of the RSPN (Royal Society for the Protection of Nature).
There are a few treks and hikes in the valley, with the most popular being the relatively easy Gangtey Nature Trail which starts at the monastery and follows the valley edge to the View Point Chorten, where you can see over the valley floor.
trongsa
Chendjebi Chorten, a stupa in the Nepalese style (Buddha Eyes on the four sides of the stupa).
Mangdechhu Hydropower, a run of the river hydro-electric power station, generating 720 MW through four turbines and commissioned in 2019.
Trongsa Dzong. The strategic position of Trongsa Dzong is obvious, perched on a ridge overlooking two valleys, where it can see, and be seen all the way down both valleys.
Trongsa Dzong from the monastic quarters. The largest fortress in Bhutan, originally built in 1543, it was replaced by a fortress in 1647. It is an important administrative centre.
Pele La Pass, marked by the Pelela Chorten lhakhang, at an elevation of 3,420m, the pass is the boundary between the west and central regions of Bhutan
Tharpaling Lhakhang is between Bumthang and Trongsa, perched near the mountain top. Famous for the Snow Pigeons, Himalayan Monals and Satyr Tragopans roosting around it.
The drive from Punakha to Trongsa goes through different valleys and across multiple passes, with the scenery changing between each valley. From vertiginous cliffs with tiny farm houses perched precariously on the valley side, to mountains stretching as far as the eye can see, it is absolutely jaw dropping.
Between Punakha and Trongsa, sits the Chendebji Chorten, a Nepalese style stupa, built in the 18th century by Lam Oensey Tshering Wangchuck, allegedly to repel the demon Ngala. Nepalese stupas have a pair of eyes on each of the four sides of the main tower, known as Buddha or Wisdom Eyes, symbolising the all-seeing ability of the Buddha.
Coming into Trongsa along the side of the valley, you can really appreciate both the defensive position of Trongsa Dzong, with its view over the entire valley, and the power and dominance it represented. The watchtower above the dzong is now a museum.
The river on the valley floor is now a significant source of hydroelectric power, and the newly built Nikachhu Hydropower plant (run of the river, 118 MW) and its giant companion, the Mangdechhu Dam (run of the river, 720 MW), can be viewed a long way below the Trongsa Dzong.
Most itineraries will visit the dzong and museum on the way through Trongsa to / from Bumthang, rather than staying in Trongsa itself.
bumthang
Konchogsum Lhakhang, aka Kenchogsum or Kenchosum lhakhang, it is one of the earliest Buddhist temples in Bhutan, built in the 9th century.
Konchogsum Lhakhang houses an ancient, now cracked, bell, which could be heard in Lhasa, Tibet, when rung. It was nearly destroyed by fire in 2010.
Kurjey Lhakhang is the final resting place of the first three Kings of Bhutan, and the body imprint of Guru Rinpoche in the altar.
Jambay Lhakhang is also famous for the annual festival held in honour of Guru Rinpoche.
Jambay Lhakhang. One of the 108 temples built in one day in the year 659 to tame the demoness, pinning her right hand to the ground.
Kurjey Zangdopelri, completed in 2009, with support of the Queen. Zangdokpalri means copper mountain, the heavenly abode of Guru Rinpoche.
Tamzhing Lhundrup was built in 1501 by Pema Lingpa. It is home for around 95 monks.
The temperature is just above freezing, and the monks of Tamzhing Lhakhang are siting outside to study. Hot food is being brought out to them.
Jakar Dzong, the Castle of the White Bird, overlooks the entire Bumthang valley and can be seen from the connecting valleys
Around 1.5 hours drive by a scenic mountain pass, Ura valley is like stepping back in time. Guru Rinpoche is said to have passed through the valley bringing Buddhism to Bhutan.
Tsa Tsas at the Burning Lake. Tsa Tsas (don’t pronounce the T) are miniature stupas, placed into caves and cracks in the mountains, as a prayer to the well being of a beloved person.
Me Bar Tsho (Burning Lake). The Treasure Revealer, Pema Lingpa, saw gold glinting in the pool, and dived in with his butter lamp. He surfaced with the butter lamp still alight.
Bumthang is the spiritual heart of Bhutan and it is easy to spend two of three full days here exploring the lhakhangs and dzongs, as well as the four valleys around Bumthang; Chumey, Cheokhor, Tang and Ura.
Bumthang domestic airport is in Jakar, and this is a great place to make your base for the time you want to spend here, as many of the key sites are in Jakar, or close by.
Here you will hear and see a lot of Pema Lingpa, the Treasure Revealer / Discoverer, as well as Guru Rinpoche, credited with bringing Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century, and Ngawang Namgyal, the Great Unifier (more on these important figures in our feature here).
The Burning Lake, where Pema Lingpa discovered the treasure, is only 25 minutes drive away in the Tang Valley.
Most of the key lhakhangs are close to Jakar; Jambay, Kurjey, Zangdopelri, Tamzhing, and Konchogsum are all clustered around the town, within 10 minutes drive.
Bumthang is known as the Switzerland of Bhutan, as the landscape is reminescant of Alpine meadows. The Red Panda small batch Bhutanese weiss beer is brewed in Jakar, at the Bunthang brewery and the owner is a Swiss National, Mr. Mauer.
The Ura valley, and Ura village are a bit further, around 1.5 hours drive across steep and winding passes (if you take the scenic route), but the scenery is dramatic, and if you are going further east (or coming back from the east), you will pass through the Ura valley on your way to / from Jakar.
If you want to experience something special, it is possible to stay in the Ogyen Choling heritage house. Some of the structure dates from the 14th century, and they have a small number of guestrooms available.